Tokyo 2010 – A Gaijin’s travel record (Part 2)

25 08 2010

Yuurakuchou – Takarazuka and Godzilla!

Much as noted within the previous part of this travel report/column thingie, one of my first stops on the way to Tokyo sightseeing aside of the impressive first impression Akibahara left on me was Yuurakuchou. Due to this area being not too far apart from Akiba initially I planned to combine them, but had to trash those plans because of the weather the day before in the afternoon. So, despite the somewhat bad feeling for having cancelled particiaption (lining-up) for day 1 of Comiket78, this impression received back-up once I was about to leave the hotel to realize a 650 meters (!) human Otaku line was forming right from the hotel (they actually closed one of the entrances due to Comike line-up as it would otherwise go wild with the door sensors!) over to Tokyo Big Sight. I had to go along parts of this line in order to reach to Kokusaitenjijou Seimon station and hop on Yurikamome (self operating train – I have never ever before seen any public transportation method as cool as this one!) to Toyosu (and from there on it goes Metro to the Yuurakuchou stop)…but once I reached right at Tokyo International Forum all the doubts of whether it was such a clever idea of mine to skip Comike78 day 1 were gone (somewhat).

Tokyo International Forum is also a huge exhibition centre which is located right next to the Tokyo Metro Yuurakuchou station (and not to far from Tokyo Station either). It is build/designed like a gigantic ship, which admitted is probably best seen from the air, but standing in front of it and also entering the complex was a pretty impressive experience on its own.

Inside they actually had some sort of fashion market going on in the basement floor with people lining up all over and once entered…well, let’s say fashion sale markets are not bringing up the most elegant sides of mankind to daylight, nee? ^^

So once crossed through TIF the next sight of interest I was searching for was the HQ building of Shin Nihon Seitetsu Kabushikigaisha (aka Nippon Steel) which was a stop more of work related interest rather than being any kind of must-see sight while in Yuurakuchou.

With the companies website stating a different location (building) than my Kodansha Tokyo Atlas (3rd edition) did, it was somewhat planned to result in a search with no positive outcome…I didn’t find the HQ because at Yuurakuchou or better said the area it is supposed to be (around TIF) the buildings are rather spare in terms of decoration/indication what is housed inside (i.e. some of the shopping malls there looked more like expensive ancient buisness complexes rather than a mall).

After around 20 min. of looking for the company and several pictures taken of the neat buildings in the area I finally gave up and progressed to the next on my list – Hibiya Koen. Took some walk from where I had given up my search but lastly I reached to the park and it was really lovely.

Nothing of the kind I should experience at later days, but Hibiya is still a nice park and especially the contrast lots of green with giant skyscrapers in the background made it worth to drop by this park.

Also, despite the often mentioned aspect of that Gaijins are bothered by homeless at Hibiya Koen, I saw those but they didn’t approach nor beg for money at all. After some flora and fauna exploration at Hibiya Koen it was about time to head towards Ginza direction, but before that I felt like some coffee (despite the heat *go figure*) would be desperately needed and so I dropped by a Starbucks on my way to Ginza.

One of the most impressive sights following right after this little break and still in Yuurakuchou followed next – Tokyo Takarazuka Gekijou.

Famous for their performances the theater itself is absolutely impressive and I took lots of photos which I’m sure neither captured the beauty and impressive features this piece of architecture hooked me with (in fact, seeing some fans in the late morning hours lining up to purchase tickets for their current plays I was very close to get myself one as well since it’s infamous Takarazuka after all and their performing is said to be an experience one shouldn’t miss).

This been my almost last stop I had planned to visit while exploring the realms of Yuurakuchou, with mere one left to go for, I found so absolutely hilarious that I *had* to find it – Godzilla!

Yep, he’s there in all his beauty but gladly in petit size as statue located in the area in front of Hibiya Chanter. Now that was a lovely way to round-up my trip to the Yuurakuchou area – onwards to Ginza!

Ginza – where diamonds are everyone’s best friend

Moving on to the next area of central Tokyo I had planned to explore that day, it was a short walk from Yuurakuchou to Ginza. Reason for wanting to explore also this part of Tokyo was less or absolutely not because of shopping but due to the architecture the expensive buildings and stores are known for there – and it didn’t really require all that much of a map to realize I was on the right route to Ginza once I noticed especially the ladies there were all dressed in a far different class than your regular Tokyote nor yours tourist truly (all sweaty when arriving there was quite embarrasing on top). The people there left an impression on me as if I would enter a different sphere or better said time as some of the women there were styled as if they tried to cosplay for most exclusively dressed Audrey Hepburn.

Walking along the streets of Ginza it looked like the brand shops and boutiques once had a fight with each other on who’d have the money and power to build the most extraordinary building for there as once I had reached the Dior building (which I thought to be pretty impressive on photos I saw in advance of my journey) that apparently is way more striking if lightened at evening/night, the Armani building nearby was the next one to draw this tourist’s attention on it.

Passing by a quick glimpse inside (I doubt a sweaty tourist like me would even be allowed to walk in anyways) each of them had special clerks (in suits – of course) apparently with the duty to hold up doors besides guiding around customers inside. Impressive and exclusive was the feeling this part of Tokyo left on me and due to that impression Ginza left me with, a lot of my camera’s data storage has gone up for Ginza that day.

Another highlight within this part of central Tokyo was the Sony Building.

Actually this been the first stop on my “trying to buy souvernirs” route as my brother is quite the freak for this Brand. Once reached (given the height of this building it’s not really hard to find anyways) and before I could enter I noticed a crowd gathering around nearby the entrance. As I found out led by curiosity Sony set up an Aquarium in front of their building’s entrance.

Kept in white/blue with fishes inside suiting the exclusiveness of Ginza I also noticed a sign indicating what will happen to the sealife inside this special Sony Aquarium exhibition (that according to the sign is planned to last till end of August)…so, no exclusive Ginza Sushi after the exhibition schedule ^^
Next on my walk through Ginza was also the infamous Kabuki-za. Which I couldn’t find..or at least I when I was about to question how accurate this Kodansha Tokyo Atlas actually *is*, because here I was standing right where it had led me to reach the building (and I also remember signs along the road leading me there) no big red kept Kabuki-za was to be found. When I asked one bypassing and Japan typical friendly Ginza lady about it, she just pointed to the building behind me…what? There was some giant building but it was all cloaked like it’s in construction..and that was actually the case with Kabuki-za – closed and covered for renovation work in progress -.-

So given how much on my sights list for that area I *was* able to locate, I could live with that and headed righ over to the next one which was coevally right on the route to the next area I was aiming for that day.

Despite the absolute beauty and impressive awe Ginza presented itself thus far, I was really eager to find the next architectural sight on my list which I was hooked on ever since I first read about it. Took a little walk and asking a police officer (whom are just as helpful friendly as everyone else here *something police in this region can learn from A LOT btw.) to point me to the exact coordinates for it – Nakagin Capsule Tower.

This I felt to be somewhat hidden (compared to the sights of Ginza I explored thus far *but probably because it’s actually a living place rather) is a real architectural jewel within the area, despite Capsule Tower sure had faced better times (IIRC I read about problems in terms of much needed renovation work a while ago).

The whole concept behind and execution made me stand there, gaze and take pictures of it for longer than I initially thought it would and even once I headed over to the neighbourhood Shiodome I still had to tak a few shots of it from the huge terrace areas providing such look-out over to the tower.
All in all Ginza left me with a real striking impression – exclusive in each and every aspect which made it a througout worthwile experience having visited this area of Tokyo!

Shiodome – now *that’s* a skyscraper! aka takai tatemono desu nee!

As noted alongside before, just a mere few steps down the road and leaving Nakagin Capsule Tower behind, not only did I reach a place where better shots at this crazy genius piece of architecture were possible, but also the next part on my planned route through Tokyo thus far – Shiodome. And much as Ginza shows itself in exclusive and coevally expensive style right away once entering that part of the city, I felt that it’s been obvious as can be that I was on the right way to enter Shiodome. Skyscrapers is what I now associate with that part of central Tokyo the most. Of course, along the road thus far I passed by quite several of huge buildings (like at the starting point for that day in Yuurakuchou and Marunouchi on my search for Nippon Steel HQ), but Shiodome’s skyscrapers are freaking huge to the extend I have never ever before seen such tall buildings next to each other.

So, after a short break at the Smoking Place at Shiodome Sio-Site and some final shots of the neighbourhood Nakagin Capsule Tower, I tried to get some shots of these buildings done, and this is probably best done from afar, because standing right at Shiodome Sio-Site for example, I felt that I probably had to lay down on the ground to make a good shot of how big this is!

Absolutely impressed I wandered around the area for a while, looking for the Dentsu Build and stuff until I lastly reached one of the locations I was probably looking forward the most while in this part of the city – the Nippon Television Tower.

This one conveniently is not all to far away from the Yurikamome halt at Shiodome Eki hence I would once for a change know exacetly where to find a train connection on my trip once I would be finished with NTV Tower. Not only is this yet another impressive and freaking huge skyscaper amongst the sea of these in Shiodome, but moreover at the time (shortly before my arrival in Tokyo) the Shiodome Hakurankai 2010 launched there at the tower. This being yet another summerly festival in Tokyo, yet had some real highlights prepaired along the road (which btw. had multilingual flags as my excited shot of the German one shows ^^)

Despite I knew about this event in advance, I must admit that actually at the location (which sure attracted large crowds and families as well) I realized how little I really *do* know about it. Because, looking around for a specific part of the Matsuri I stumbled over a gigantic clock at the first floor of the area.

Absolutely astouned by the design I took several photos of it until at closer inspection the feeling I had while looking at the gigantic clock was confirmed – especially for the Shiodome Hakurankai, Studio Ghibli mastermind Hayao Miyazaki (!!!) designed this clock for the NTV Tower!

You can bet once knowing this fact, there was no way around doing more shots of it (despite my camera’s storage already nearing its limits by then ^^) to hopefully capture some of the details of the Miyazaki designed clock (the feet where absolutely brilliant I tell ya!).

After quite some time spent gazing at this monument, I strolled around the event plaza a little more and besides the little but cool “sneak peak” at the Karigurashi no Arriety x Taneda Yohei exhibition (this Ghibli project was *really* big advertised througout Tokyo, with Yuurakuchou’s Metro station literally plastered with Posters for it!) at Tokyo-to Gendai Bijutsukan (actually I *planned* to visit this, because the concept of live sized Karigurashi surrounding sounds cool, but that I wanted to do once I had watched the movie in cinemas..which I didn’t manage either..).

On the ground/basement floor, right next to the giant blade of grass exhibited (which seemed to be a real popular place for visiting families to photograph right next/in front of ^^) there was also the “attraction” I was most eager to get some little shopping done at last on this trip to Tokyo central city exploration that day – EVANGELION store! Not inside the building but also right at the plaza, they showcased some real neat goods (EVA always has neat goods ever since the whole hype started, nee) with the collaboration T-shirts been really tempting (these are to some extend also available via their online EVA store and are produced in conjunction with various jp mostly streetwear producing fashion Brands)…however at prices like 5,000 up to 8,000 Yen for one of these beauties and moreso taking Comike78 into consideration I had planned to start my attendance/linin-up later that day, I dropped the idea to get a shirt there. Instead, another part of their Goods line-up totally fascinated me, which I had read of in advance of my trip and couldn’t leave the store without – Evangelion UCC coffee.

Not just the coffee itself as released back at the first new theatrical feature’s roadshow start, but moreso for mere 600 Yen a can plus figure Set were sold there – a REAL steal I thought and so I purchased the Asuka and Mari Set and even got a cool Rei Uchiwa as bonus (pictures of that to follow at some point).

Now that was all in all a great way to conclude the first half of this day in Tokyo. Lots on the list of must-see sights visited, left with a wonderful impression plus also glad how well I found my way alongside my exploration thus far.

Akiba – a revisit or Denki Guy Matsuri 3 day No. 2 and the ART JEUNESS experience

Back to the hotel at this time (around 2-3 PM)? Nope, it’s actually back to Akiba..because I wanted to check out whether day 2 at Denki Guy Matsuri 3 would be as crowded as the day before, or if the just started Comike78 would cool down things at Akiba for a bit which this minori / KEROQ addict would wholeheartly appreciate.

And really, Akibahara felt not to be as crowded as the day before. This still means naturally lots of people and Otaku everywhere you look, but compared with the huge line-up for minori at UDX the day before… so, I was somewhat fearing lines in front of animate, where both minori and KEROQ were relocated starting at day 2 of DGM3 but it was rather empty, meaning I did not have to line-up at all. Located at the entrance (chara goods) floor of animate, there was the much sought-for KEROQ booth plus slightly ahead (entering animate straight ahead) minori. After some shopping at KEROQ (SubaHibi Soundtrack *yeah*) and looking for the stylish minori T-shirts (but these probably sold out on day 1 already, since the lovely Kei and blue-wig and Kimono wearing ? minori booth girls did not sell nor had them on their Goods line-up listed anymore) I was tempted to stay longer in Akiba because of the Takeshi Okazaki signing where the first wave was slated for 5 in the afternoon..which would have been a couple of hours (arrived at around 3 PM in Akiba) to pass by.

Ultimately after some strolling around and also getting some lunch at last at a lovely Japanese restaurant inside UDX where I learned the “TAKE AWAY” sign in connection of their Bento was just as ment this way and the polite/friendly waitress was not so amused I took a seat and tried to order Bento *blushes*, I headed to a stop on Akiba sights of things I somewhat was still to worried about to set foot into the previous day in this area…the Akiba branch of ART JEUNESS.

Following their web presence for a long while now (ever since I noticed that they were conducting exhibitions in collaboration with Japan’s top-notch MOE artists) visiting one of their special exhibits was something that instantly came to mind while planning for Akibahara places of interest. Thankfully once again at this point to AoDVD board member kijakusai my enthusiasm about ART JEUNESS and their exhibitions was somewhat steamed-down to the point I was also a bit scarred to set foot into their offices. Reason for that? Well, not just one but quite several visitors spread word about AJ being a rip-off and actually mentioned in connection with dishonest business methods conducted there with the staff trying everything to sell you on the extremely priced pictures “exhibited” there. Hence, with my financials saved thus far for Comike, I wasn’t sure whether I should will-in temptation to check out the newly launched and moreso limited time held Misaki Kurehito Debut Exhibition or just forget about it…but once I had spend some consideration about it at the Excelsior Caffé that is right on the ground next to the elevator leading up to ART JEUNESS (and also K-BOOKS’ Hand Maid Cafe Usagi no Mori *which this Korie Riko fanboy wished so desperately to drop by whilst in Tokyo but the crowds in front of the elevator for that VS. my stressed time plan ultimately made me miss out on that chance*), I decided to give it a chance (and besides I had promised lovely Natalie of nattoli fame some details about it ^^). So I took the elevator up to ART JEUNESS and upon entering was a counter where their exclusive Goods apparently are sold. Two beauties in business dressed and perfectly styled welcomed me with a smile and let me procceed without any admission (as IIRC one of the visitor reports once mentioned as first step on the rip-off tactics). Didn’t spend much time looking at the goods, given the mixed feelings I entered this exhibition branch to begin with (plus Comike would probably need all the money I can spend on anyways) and so I proceeded into the “halls” – actually moreso of a bigger floor where you have to watch out not to fall over one of the cables on the ground. What are these good for? Knock you out and to take your money *j/k*? No, entering the first area of their exhibition these cables led to each of the pictures exhibited and are for the lightning each of these features. That said I was totally confused when I entered the first exhibition “room”..because rather than Kurehito Misaki, the artworks exhibited where by TINKLE, Nishimata Aoi, CARNELIAN, Kantoku *annnd* Korie Riko! I stood there for longer than I was initially planning to, somewhat relaxed by the fact I wasn’t the only Otaku at AJ at that time and non of the “evil-business-plans-aiming” clerks to be seen at this all-over MOE exhibition room. Of course, at each of the artworks they had the pricing label placed somewhere underneath (and as their webshop indicates the price is really sky-rocket high!) but seeing TINKLE and moreso Korie Riko art in such quality which definitely the lightning does support to bring forth even moreso, was just priceless. While TINKLE art like from their winter Comike Bianco El Dorado (“Snow Bride” or what it was called?) and lots of awesome Korie Riko goodness enflamed my MOE loving heart to extends I wasn’t thinking it would (yeah, so I can see how the Otaku is easy bait there) the Nishimata-sensei part of exhibit was a bit disappointing almost througoutly focused on SHUFFLE! and little to no exclusive/original art. So, finished gazing at the beauty presented at this part of the ART JEUNESS office, I still kept wondering whether I missed something on the large size Kurehito Misaki artwork announcing the debut exhibition at AJ on the outside of the building..until I strolled around to the next area of the floor, a slightly creepy one with low-kept light. Of course, this also had a reason, because at this area (which was much more exclsuive styled compared to the simplistic kept allaround MOE area before) it seemed I just entered the main exhibition section of AJ with several pieces of new and exclusive Kurehito Misaki artworks beautifully framed spread around the room – not on the walls as before, but rather they were located on stands with lightning and seats in front – so one could sit down and gaze at the beauty of Kurehito Misaki art! Sounds like a beautiful and relaxing method to get some MOE boost at ART JEUNESS Akiba, but then I noticed some aspects that let me refrain from taking a seat. Not only was it this exhibition area where apparently all the well dressed and perfectly styled young and sexy female and male staff of AJ was lurking but also in front of each artwork there were exactely 3 seats. Why is the number 3 so scarry? Well, as noted I haven’t been alone at AJ at this time of the day and noticed a young couple sitting in front of IIRC AUTUMN TINT OF CHINA (the one the above shown picture shows), they were taking up 2 seats and also at this point I noticed that aside of myself most people at the exhibition dropped by as duo (either friends or such as in this case a couple). Apparently AJ noticed that trend as well and so guess who’s taking a seat on the one remaining place? Yep, one of the extremely well dressed and good-looking staff ready to launch a little sales conversation while people are rightfully drooling over the special made artworks! They also took the chance to get into conversation with people not trying to take a seat and just look at the artworks, but I guess it’s thanks to the Gaijin factor that enabled a smooth and quick retreat on my side after spending less time than at the previous exhibit section to check out the new Kurehito-sensei done artworks there. Just took one of the free flyers (because it was Korie Riko on there ^^) and left the building. So my experience on terms of ART JEUNESS exhibitions (in Akiba) wasn’t as bad as I feared and ultimately I certainly do not regret that I decided for a visit (the art is really beautiful and top-notch quality there and once seen I lean towards the impression it *isn’t* overpriced for the beauty you actually could purchase there) but I don’t know whether I would really check out their special exhibits again or spend some more time there than I’ve done that day given the somewhat scarry confirmation of AJ talk I gladly was pointed towards before my visit.
This said and done, it was getting quite late already (you can easily spend hours in Akiba without noticing I felt) and still bothered by the crowd waiting to enter Usagi no Mori I was trying at least my luck at Royal Host which was conducting a special WORKING! menu (Parfait!) at the time…but due to the Coasters handed out to customers there (which they actually sold out the 1st wave earlier than expected as the notice outside of Royal Host indicated!) there was a freaking long line there as well, right from the entrance up the whole stairways to Royal Host…so I dropped that idea as well (I don’t need to mention that the GUNDAM Cafe had its typical line outside the building this day in Akiba as well, or?).

Totally forgotten about returning to animate for Takeshi Okazaki or better said he first sign session, which was long over by the time, I was not so thrilled to stay another hour at Akiba just to maybe reach in time for the 2nd session slated (because all of the lines to places I wanted to go there and given the rather extensive foot walk during the first half of the day) and headed back to Odaiba to prepair and get some sleep prior to heading out to Big Sight for Comike78 day 2 lining-up…of course by that time I did not realize into what sort of trouble and at the time actually felt like disaster I would run whilst prepairing for a fun day at Comike, but given today’s write-up is already getting longer than expected and this should be a seperate/new entry to begin with, I’ll leave it at that for today hoping it was a somewhat enjoyable read and of course To be continued…

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4 responses

1 09 2010
Natalie

I didn’t know the Art Jeuness Exhibits are like that. Glad you had your foreigner power to keep them away XD Still, it sounds worth it to get to see exclusive works, printed in gallery sizes.

Also, I just had to look up that Nakagin Capsule Tower, for the sake of seeing how the rooms were inside. I wasn’t disappointed XD It feels more like it should be a hotel than permanent living quarters.

2 09 2010
littleharlock

Honestly it surprised me quite a bit as well, once I was pointed towards the negative feedback by jp visitors of Art Jeuness..especially since it’s all done in cooperation with the artists on such big scale (then again, they certainly don’t mind the money for sold artworks either, nee?). While I do think, merely judged by the Akiba experience, to some degree it’s true I also think some of the reports (i.e. one mentioning entrance fee) are a bit exaggerated ultimately and I approached AJ expecting far less than what I saw there (the MOE allstar exhibition was really neat and also the showroom for Kurehito Misaki’s art was quite lovely arranged contrary to the reports of “a tiny room with a couple of pictures” there). But what I also was quite puzzled about is the way AJ announcements are done – for example animate clearly labeled the Okazaki Takeshi signing as such (with restriction being to purchase his new artbook to attend the signing *of course*), but on 14th August AJ announced Kurehito Misaki would “show up” at AJ Akiba..with no single word of this announcement (which they had labeled outside the building) noting something like signing or the likes as people/fans would expect from such, so I was wondering how *that* event was like at AJ (maybe – buy one of the paintings for 500,000 Yen and get it signed? ^^)

4 09 2010
Tokyo 2010 – A Gaijin’s travel record (Part 7) « Nのフィールド

[...] and (boutique) buildings at that area, I’d say you could compare it best with Ginza which I explored earlier on my stay in Tokyo. Hence, even though by then many if not most shops at this Shibuya area were [...]

9 01 2011
Subarashiki Hibi « Nのフィールド

[...] left a positive striking impression on me, as much as that I had to pick-up the Soundtrack at KEROQ’s booth back at Akiba DenkiGuyMatsuri3 this summer. No wonder either, given the Sound staff from MAKURA namely ryo (I *still* wonder [...]

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